A Couple Divine Salmon Recipes
Back in May we promised we’d share the recipes we made from Cynthia Nims’ Salmon cookbook. Luckily, we’re still in the heart of wild salmon season … and ready to divulge the secret recipes!
SALMON POT AU FEU
Makes 4 Servings
¾ pound fingerling potatoes, scrubbed (we recommend Austrian Crescent potatoes)
6 cipollini onions or 12 small boiling onions, peeled
1 small lemon, halved
6 cups salmon stock (we used veggie stock)
Salt and freshly ground white or black pepper
1 ½ pounds wild salmon fillet, skin and pin bones removed
Put the potatoes in a pan of cold salted water and bring to a low boil over medium high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the potatoes are just tender when pierced with the tip of a knife, 12 to 15 minutes, depending on their size. Scoop out the potatoes with a slotted spoon into a bowl and set aside. Return the pan to high heat and bring to a boil. Add the onions to the boiling water, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until the onions are just barely tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Scoop out the onions with a slotted spoon, add them to the bowl with the potatoes, and set aside, discarding the water.
Squeeze the lemon juice into a medium saucepan of cold water and drop the lemon halves in as well. Use your fingers to trim a couple of outer layers of leaves from the baby artichokes until you reach the tender, paler green leaves toward the center. Trim the stem up to about 1 inch and peel away the tough outer green skin from the base of the stem. Cut the top down to about 1 inch from the base of the artichoke. Quarter each artichoke, scraping out the choke (some very young artichokes may not have much choke at all), and put the pieces in the saucepan. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to medium and simmer until just barely tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain well and set aside.
Pluck the tender tops from the tarragon sprigs and set aside for garnish. Mince enough of the remaining tarragon to make about 2 teaspoons and put it in a large saucepan with the salmon stock. Bring the stock to a boil and boil until reduced by about one-third, 12 to 15 minutes. Season the stock with salt and pepper. Quarter the cipollini onions, if using, and cut the potatoes into 1-inch pieces.
Cut the salmon fillet into 1-inch cubes and add the salmon to the stock. Add the artichoke pieces, onions, and potato pieces, cover the pan, and simmer over medium-low heat until just a touch of translucence remains in the center of the salmon cubes, 3 to 5 minutes.
To serve, use a slotted spoon to evenly distribute the salmon and vegetables among 4 shallow soup bowls. Taste the broth for seasoning, adding more salt or pepper to taste, then ladle it into the bowls. Float the reserved tarragon on top and serve right away.
SALMON BURGERS with BASIL MAYONNAISE
Makes 4 Servings
Burgers:
1 ½ pounds wild salmon fillet, skin and pin bones removed.
½ cup minced red onion
2 tablespoons minced basil
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white or black pepper
4 Kaiser rolls or hamburger buns
4 crisp lettuce leaves
4 large tomato slices
Basil Mayonnaise:
1 egg yolk
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
¾ cup olive oil (not extra virgin)
2 tablespoons minced basil
2 to 3 tablespoons basil oil (optional)
Salt and freshly ground white or black pepper
For the basil mayonnaise, combine the egg yolk and vinegar in a medium bowl and whisk to blend. Begin adding the olive oil a drop at a time, whisking constantly, until the yolk begins to turn pale and thicken slightly, showing that an emulsion has begun to form. Continue adding the rest of the oil in a thin, steady stream, whisking constantly, then whisk in the basil and basil oil, if using, with salt and pepper to taste. (Alternatively, combine the egg yolk and vinegar in a food processor and pulse to blend. With the blades running, begin adding the oil a few drops at a time, then continue adding the rest in a thin steady stream. Add the basil and basil oil with salt and pepper to taste and pulse to blend.) Refrigerate the mayonnaise until ready to serve; it will have a fuller, more balanced flavor if made at least 1 hour before serving and can be made 1 to 2 days in advance.
Preheat an outdoor grill.
Cut the salmon fillet into medium dice and pulse it a few times in a food processor to finely chop without making a puree. Alternatively, pass the salmon pieces through the medium plate of a meat grinder. Put the salmon in a large bowl with the onion, basil, lemon zest, salt, and pepper. Stir to evenly mix, then form the salmon mixture into 4 burgers, about 4 inches across and 1 inch thick.
When the grill is heated, lightly rub the grill grate with oil and grill the burgers until they are just opaque through and moderately browned, 3 to 4 minutes per side. While the burgers are cooking, toast the buns on the outer edge of the grill, if you like.
To serve, set the salmon burgers on the bottom bun, top with a good dollop of the basil mayonnaise, followed by the lettuce, tomato, and the top bun. Serve right away.
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