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Best of 2009 eCookBook
 

Salts & Vinegars in the Test Kitchen

 

In the late 90s, I was visiting our restaurant customers in Atlanta (I’m only 31 now, so don’t start thinking I’m a dinosaur…you can think though that I’m a beneficiary of nepotism…because certainly there’s only one reason why I was touring Atlanta’s finest…and that is because my father owned the business and dragged me along to see some customers). Anyhow, at the time, we were selling to most of the Buckhead Group’s restaurants (I can’t remember which one this story took place in, but it was cavernous and ocean-themed inside). I’m not sure what the story is these days, but at the time, the Buckhead Group was driving a culinary renaissance in the city. OK, I need to cut to the chase:

The executive chef disclosed something to me in confidence. He said: “My job is to salt food. That’s it. That’s all I do.” I was surprised to hear that and didn’t really believe him, but he was insistent…and serious.

So, I’m writing to give you one of the secrets of how you can convert your home-cooked meals into restaurant-quality dishes: SALT THE SHIT OUT OF YOUR FOOD! I’m embellishing, but only slightly. While it takes a whole lot more to make exceptional food, one thing is for sure: you can’t make restaurant-quality food without A LOT of salt…and oil. Makes sense, right? Just about anything will have flavor if you add enough salt and fat!

Which gets me to my next point…you can use a whole lot less salt in your dishes and still pull exceptional flavor if you use our new (and exceptional) line of finishing salts from Ritrovo. While this post is certainly a shameless plug, damn these salts are good. Here’s the post that I originally intended before I began the diatribe above:

Monday was a fun day at work. In addition to cooking a dozen dishes for our upcoming “Ultimate Epicurean Party Menu”, we taste tested Ritrovo’s lines of Finishing Salts, Fruit Vinegars and Balsamic Vinegars. Somehow, the day was neither too salty nor too acidic. Thanks to Ritrovo for that, because their products are wonderfully balanced.

Here’s some tips:

Next time you make burgers (we made kobe beef sliders), dust them with a pinch of Fennel & Salt. The flavor of fennel pollen will permeate your burgers.

If you are planning fresh live oysters for a New Years Eve party, make a mignonette from any of Ritrovo’s vinegars (except, perhaps the Cherry vinegar which was a little overwhelming). Use 2 ingredients: 1 tablespoon of shallots to every 3 tablespoons of vinegar.

Pan Roasted Steaks LOVE Fennel & Salt and Porcini & Salt. We were surprised that both Fiori & Salt and Sweet & Salt were delicious on the New York Strip steaks too. Even more surprising was that the normally popular truffle & salt was too overpowering for the roasted meat. Save the Truffle & Salt for pasta, eggs and pretty much all things Italian.

Fiori & Salt was also delicious sprinkled on a roasted chicken breast.

And, on the seared tuna, Sea & Salt was the favorite, followed by Cervia Salt. Sweet & Salt did not work at all on the tuna.

In terms of vinegars, we used the Ritrovo Black Currant Vinegar to marinate chantrelles, the Ritrovo fig vinegar to make a tarragon aioli for the kobe sliders, and the Ritrovo Pinot Grigio vinegar in a preserved lemon vinaigrette that we used to dress sockeye salmon fillets before roasting. All turned out deliciously…and, we’ll be posting the recipes as soon as we can.

It was a delicious day. And, the Ritrovo collections made it all the better…



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